Long Layer Haircuts & How to Long Layer Haircut

Today, I am answering one of my most asked questions, how do I get my haircut. And I thought, instead of just telling you, I would show you, so I’m bringing in my friend Nadirah, who’s also been my hairstylist for about three or four years now. I love the way that she does haircuts, and so I thought I would have her show you all the ins and outs of my haircut as we go. And this is just to help you know what to ask for when you go into your hairstylist. So let’s get into it. And everyone, this is Nadirah, my very favorite hairstylist/haircutter of all time. So you guys are always asking what I ask for the hairstylist, so Nadirah, you’ve cut my hair about a bazillion times. What we talked about the first time, forever ago at this point, we talked about the length, you tell me how much hair I have to lose because I’ve waited too long to get my haircut.

Every time. – Every single time. And then the things that I was definitely asking for earlier on was that I wanted long layers. I didn’t want them short enough that they mess with my braids or anything, but I wanted some movement. I wanna keep my hair looking as full as possible. And then I like soft face framing. I’ve definitely had a case before and I think you even saw this when I first came in where people gave me face framing that was like chunky and I’ve heard people say it looks like a bob and then a long haircut when that happens.

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Yeah, yeah, I know. – And that’s what we don’t wanna do. – Absolutely. So that’s what we typically go for. So how would you describe the haircut that you typically do on me? – Basically, you hit the nail on the head, you wanna keep the layers long because you’re doing braids and it’s so sad when you see someone who’s got these beautiful braids and they just get thinner and thinner towards the ends, and so you wanna keep your layers as long as possible if you’re gonna be doing a lot of braiding. But it also helps to have those layers in there just for curling or movement, just to give it some depth and dimension. – Yeah. – And like you said, it’s really important to keep fullness on the ends. That density on the ends is what makes long hair look healthy. Like the moment it starts to get kind of like what you have going on right now, a little bit see through, that’s when hair starts to look not as healthy, not as thick, and just kind of sad sometimes.

And I think with long hair, when you’re looking in the mirror, like this is the most important hair, right here, because this is what you see. So this is your length. A lot of people don’t see what’s going on in the back of their head, so I think it’s really important to do that really light face frame and not cut into your hair so that you can still have that thickness and length and density in the ends, in the front of the hair. – Okay, so we’re gonna leave some weight. We’re gonna do some long layers and face framing. You ready to wet all this down and cut it?

I’m so ready. – Oh wait, how much are we, we’re cutting a lot, aren’t we? Guys, this is sad. (Nadirah laughs) – We’re gonna take off at least two inches, maybe two and a half. – It’s okay. It’s okay because wispy ends aren’t really hair anyway. That’s what I have to tell myself. – It’s so much better to have long hair that looks healthy than hanging on to that length that’s just sad and thin. No one wants those scraggly ends. – It’s true, the scraggly ends ruin the whole thing. – And honestly, when your hair is this long, cutting off two inches, it’s still gonna be long. – Thank you. That makes me feel better. Okay, I think I’m ready. Let’s cut the hair.

Okay. All right, so we’re going to begin the haircut. I’ve gone ahead and sectioned everything out and the first thing I’m gonna do is establish our length. We’ve already discussed how much we’re gonna take off and that’s basically two inches of those sad, see through ends that we’ve got going on here. Sorry. (both laughing) Another thing to talk about with your hairdresser before you get your haircut is what shape you like the perimeter. Some people like to have a V shape in the back or they like it straight across. For Kayley, I normally do just a soft U shape, so it’s straight in the center and then curves up slightly toward the corners.

So we can already see a big difference just from cutting that off by looking at how much fuller and thicker Kayley’s ends look. You don’t have all of that see through, raggedy ends anymore. It looks nice and thick and full, which is exactly what we’re going for. So now that we’ve established our perimeter and reestablish some weight in Kayley’s ends, now we’re gonna start with those long layers.

So the layering pattern that I’m gonna be using on Kayley’s hair is more of a rounded layering pattern. You don’t have to know what this means, but your hairdresser will. Basically, rounded layers are gonna help make your hair look thicker and fuller, but if you already have a ton of hair, then maybe you wanna get flat or square layers. That’s actually gonna help reduce the look of thicker hair. So for thick hair that you want to make look smaller, ask for square or flat layers and for finer hair that you want to look fuller, make sure you ask for rounded layers.

So that’s gonna be the basic layering pattern that I’m gonna do everywhere in the back and you can see at the top of her head, that’s the shortest layer, right here, and it’s only about maybe five-ish inches shorter than the length, so the layers are really all down throughout here, so that’s gonna keep everything nice and full, but still allows some movement. So I guess right now we’re just establishing the length on the side? – Mm-hmm. – Cool. – We’re just connecting the side perimeter to the back perimeter.

All right, we have symmetry. – Yes. (both laughing) – All right, so now that we have our perimeter established on the sides, now we need to blend our layering in through the front as well. I love that, those diagonal sections that create that perfect short to long flow. – I can’t see it, but I’ve just imagined. – [Nadirah] It’s there, and it’s good. – Okay. – One of the things that I’m really careful about when I’m cutting hair is to look at my client’s hairline. So Kayley’s hairline moves back right here before it goes down, and it’s a little bit thinner right here, so what I wanna do is make sure that I don’t layer this portion of the hair.

I don’t wanna bring it up with my top layers because if I do that, what’s gonna end up happening is she’s gonna have a thick piece in front because her hairline moves forward right here, and then there’s gonna be a little hole right here. So pay attention to your hairline as well when you go to the hairdresser. And if there’s anything that you think might need to be addressed, bring it up with them so that they know what to do and how to address it properly. All right, so I’ve connected these layers on this side and everything below that parting, this is gonna be trimmed when we work in Kayley’s face frame. So if you think that I’m ignoring it right now, I’m doing it intentionally.

Okay, so all of our layering is done and now what I think is probably one of the most important things aside from maintaining that length in the front is the face frame. So one of the things that I see that happens to people all the time is that that face frame ends up being cut back into the haircut, and you end up losing all of that length. This is, we already said, that’s so important. So I think it’s really, really important to make sure that the face frame stays very light and very soft. So the first thing we wanna do is find out where you part your hair. So Kayley, you part your hair on this side, right? – Yes. – Okay. – Right about where you finger is actually. – Perfect, see I remember. (Kayley laughs) – It’s like you’ve done this before. – But you know what though? Let me say something about that. Sometimes clients will come in and say, “Just do the same thing as last time,” and especially if it’s been five months since you’ve come, we don’t always remember.

We see a lot of clients everyday, so maybe just recap it for us. We can figure it out, what it is, just by looking through it, but it will save a little bit of time if you just remind us. – It’s true. I also think it’s great if you tell your stylist what you really liked, so they can make sure to hit that note again. – Absolutely. And also what you don’t like. – Yeah. – Because sometimes things need to be changed and adjusted, and it’s okay if you don’t like everything. It’s not gonna hurt our feelings if you want something to be adjusted the next time.

Yeah, I think the most polite thing you can do for your hairstylist is to be honest with them because at the end of the day, they can’t give you what you want if you’re not helping them to find out what that is. – [Nadirah] So we want this to be, what? Like an inch-ish below the chin? – Yeah, I like to leave some of these pieces out when I do ponytails and stuff, so enough that it doesn’t look awkward when I do that. – Okay. – Yeah. There it goes. – So you’ll notice that the only area that I’m really cutting as part of that face frame is this area that is to the front of the temple.

So that means that all of these hair is not being touched. She’s still gonna keep that length and this is gonna blend really, really softly into it. So you can see now, she’s got these pieces that are framing her face, but then nothing has been taken away from this area. And then all I’m gonna do just to make sure that everything is connected and blended seamlessly is just comb this down and you can see there’s just that little corner right there and all we’re gonna do is just soften up that corner. All right, so that completes the wet portion of the cut. (hair dryer whooshing) All right, so this is the end result. We’ve got beautiful, long layers, a really soft face frame. The only thing I want to adjust right now is I wanna add some texture in the ends because right now, it looks like a fresh haircut, which is great and it feels really healthy and thick and full, but it doesn’t necessarily style as well when it’s too blunt on the ends.

Curling can be a little bit of a challenge. It can look like clumpy or chunky towards the ends. So what I like to do is just go in and soften up those ends so that it doesn’t look so fresh and it looks a little bit lived-in. And there you have it. This is Kayley’s new haircut. – Jazz hands. (both laughing) Okay, so that is my haircut and it feels so much healthier. It looks so much healthier. – Thank you, Nadirah. Thank you so, so much. Guys, this girl’s amazing. Can you give them your info if they wanna come get their haircut by you? – Yes, absolutely. If you’re in the Los Angeles area, I’m in the salon all the time.

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