I start talking to the designers weeks before their shows. They tell me about their collections. I usually visit each designer’s showroom to see the fabrics and colors (it’s sometimes surprising how close to the show date the actual clothes are made up). Then I start forming ideas in my head about what I want to do. Sometimes the idea comes from a phrase the designer used, such as âœcountry clubâ or âœopulent” or an important color in the line. Sometimes I hear a buzzword that travels back from the European shows orfrom an editor I respect. I return to review my idea with the designer, often doing the actual makeup on a design assistant in the showroom. I do a different look for each designer. Sometimes, though, there is an overriding theme, like darker eyes or a richer mouth.
In the case of Joan Vass, there isn’t much formal preparation. Every season she instructs me to âœjust do what you do.â Then she’ll add, âœI don’t want blush.â Nonetheless, since the lights are so bright on the runway, I always do a little blush so the models don’t look washed-out.