Men’s Suit Styles Types Fits and Details

A bespoke suit is made from scratch, usually by hand and with patterns that were drafted to your precise measurements. It’s the most expensive variety because it involves a fully customisable service, resulting in a luxury product. A bespoke tailor will also be a highly skilled individual with access to a broader range of mills and therefore quality fabrics. Depending on the skill of the tailor, your range of possibilities are limitless – meaning bespoke can easily cross over into couture.

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A made-to-measure uit is machine cut from pre-existing patterns. The tailor adjusts the cloth by using your body’s measurements against the base pattern. It’s a quicker process that requires fewer fittings. Your choices of fabric and custom detail will be more limited than bespoke, but it’s far less expensive and is a perfect choice for established business men who need a better quality suit and fit for work. The tailor will also retain your measurements, meaning that your next suit will be much quicker to make. Beware of made-to-measure brands fronting as bespoke tailors. Off-the-rack refers to a store-bought suit. Every retailer will have a basic set of suit cuts made from generic patterns.
When buying off-the-rack, two of the most important things to consider are the fabric and the shoulder. You will pay more for better quality, but in return the suit will last longer and wear better. A tailor can help you sculpt an off-the-rack suit, but he’s not a miracle worker. His skills will primarily focus on the sleeves, trousers, body, waist and hem. If the shoulder and armhole are ill-fitting to begin with, the whole suit will be a flop. Pay attention to this in store. Off-the-rack is perfect for young businessmen and budding entrepreneurs who want the style for less. You can spend less on a suit and more on a tailor.
GETTING YOUR SHOULDERS RIGHT
1. Your sleeve fabric should fall smoothly down the length of your arm. If it twists, it means the sleeve was attached at the wrong angle and needs to be re-cut and reattached. Try a different jacket.
2 Your jacket should lie smoothly and evenly across the length of your shoulders. If the fabric bunches up on your shoulders it means the jacket is too big for you. Go for a smaller size.
3 If you experience diagonal warping in the fabric from your neck to your nipples it means the jacket is too small. You shouldn’t feel the arm hole digging into your underarm. Go for a bigger size.
4 If your shoulder pads are protruding over your actual shoulders, the cut is too wide and the sleeve will sag. Go for a smaller size so the seam sits at the edge of your shoulder.

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