Saunas are a way of life here and there are three million in the country, almost as many as people! To get the full experience, try a sauna tour. You’ll be transported around on a bus that’s a moving sauna! We stopped at an ice sauna – built on a frozen lake, and a traditional smoke sauna. Here we received a ‘Finnish massage’ using bunches of birch twigs to open the pores and relieve stress, and a salt, j oj oba and birch scrub. A customised sauna tour at Wellbeing in Wilderness costs from £172 ( FOOD AND DRINK Finnish food comes fresh straight from the lake or forest, with plenty of fish. To balance the healthiness out, butter and cream feature heavily, too! For a traditional Lappish dinner, head to Iisakki Village’s Iisakin Talo (rukasafaris. fi/en/restaurants). The roast reindeer steak melts in the mouth, as will the cloudberry pie. Wash it down with tar vodka (smoky and moreish). LIGHT SHOW If you’re lucky enough to see them, the Northern Lights are breathtaking. We went on a guided night trek at Pyhavaara Hill in search of them. As we crunched through pristine snow along old reindeer tracks, our guide pointed out lynx, wolverine and bear tracks along the way. A three-hour Northern Lights trek with Ruka Safaris costs from £50pp ( en).

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